How to Choose the Perfect Chain: A Weave Guide That Will Change How You See Jewelry

In the world of jewelry craftsmanship, there are no small details. The shape of each link, the angle of its connection, and even the thickness of the wire determine how a chain will shine, move, and lay on the body.

We’ve gathered the most popular types of chain weaves for you, explained their unique features, and suggested which ones will make the most reliable and striking base for your jewelry.

The Main Types of Jewelry Chain Weaves: For Those Seeking the Perfect Base

All chain weaves can be broadly divided into four main types:

• Anchor

• Bismarck

• Curb

• Fancy

Each has its own architecture, durability, and character — from classic symmetry to intricate engineering structures.

Anchor Chain

Oval or round links are connected perpendicularly to one another, creating a flexible yet strong chain. This weave works equally well for delicate accessories and bold, statement pieces.

Subtypes:

1. Rollo (Chopard, Belcher) — smooth round links.

2. Double Rollo (Garibaldi) — double round links with a voluminous effect.

3. Venetian (Box) — square or rectangular links that resist twisting.

4. Double Anchor — double oval links for maximum strength.

5. Cord — twisted links with a rope-like effect.

Bismarck

A dense and complex weave consisting of double or triple links set in different directions. Despite its solid look, the Bismarck chain keeps a touch of delicacy. Often handmade, it can serve as a standalone piece.

Subtypes:

1. Flat Bismarck — double spiral interlacing.

2. Double Bismarck — a more voluminous version with three twists.

3. Arabic — a dense, ornamental pattern.

4. Byzantine (Fox Tail) — rounded links with a looser connection.

Curb Chain

Flat links lie closely together, forming a smooth “ribbon.” This weave offers high shine and excellent shape retention.

Subtypes:

1. Nonna — small links inside larger ones.

2. Love — links shaped like hearts.

3. Figaro — alternating long and short links.

4. Snail — spiral elements with a shell-like effect.

5. Snake — a flexible cord with tightly connected links.

Fancy Weave

Here, it’s all about combining different techniques, shapes, and textures in a single chain. Each piece is an author’s experiment — and can easily become a wearable art object.

Orxata Transforming Jewelry’s Choice

For us, a chain is the engineering foundation of a piece. It must withstand transformations, remain lightweight, and suit any look.

Anchor chains and their Venetian (Box) variation handle this task best. They combine aesthetics with functionality, allowing you to create dozens of wearing options from a single piece — from minimalist to statement — adapting it to your mood and occasion.

To see how different chain weaves work in our designs, explore the Orxata Transforming Jewelry catalog.